Printed dress-pattern.



PATENTED MAY 23, 1905.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

A TTOHNE Y II I K 1 w. A 1 I l l l I I r I I I I IMWIHH HHi l l l l lHHlH lHHH w. FREEMAN. PRINTED DRESS PATTERN. APPLIUATION FILED JAN. 24,1903- PATENTED MAY 23, 1905.

W. FREEMAN; PRINTED DRESS PATTERN. APPLIOATIOK mum JAN 4 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

' ATTORNEY Iml WITNESSES.

APPLICATION FILED JAIL. 1903.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 3'.

fwanfon' ATENTEE MAY 23,1905;

w. FREEMAN. I PRINTED DRESS PATTERN.

APPLIOATION FILED JAN. 24. 1903.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

7 UNITED "STATES Patented May 23, 1 905.

PATENT OFFICE.

PRINTED DRESS-PATTERN.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 790,568, dated May 23,1905. Application filed January 24, 1903. Serial No. 140,364.

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that 1, WILLIAM FREEMAN, a' citizen of the United States,residing at New York, (Brooklyn,) in the county of Kings and State ofNew York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in PrintedDress- Patterns; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full,clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enableothers skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use thesame.

My invention has reference to paper pat. terns for dress-garments whichare to be so shaped as to adorn the wearer.

The objects of the invention are to produce dress-garment patterns ofsuch a kind as to enable persons possessing little or no knowledge orskill in the dressmaking art to proceed to cut out with accuracy theparts for a garment of the desired size and style and without thenecessity of first taking a multiplicity of measurements of the intendedwearer, to produce dress-patterns so delineated that a pattern may beapplied to the dress fabric by an unskilled person and the pattern andthe fabric cut out simultaneously to form dress parts by following thelines of the pattern and Wholly without liability of error andconsequent loss of expensive dress material, and to enable the user toprocure at low cost or at no cost Whatever a large assortment of sizesof patterns of a dress-garment and in convenient form for use orpreservation. Other objects will hereinafter appear.

By my invention a large assortment of sizes of a single dress-garmentpattern (including numerous pattern parts intended to conform to oneanother in constructing the garment of the desired ornamental shape) areprinted or delineated in such a compact manner that a person purchasinga pattern sheet for a single style of dress-garment can, by the aidthereof and by simple and easily understood operations, cutout insuccession garments for an entire series of graduated sizessay firstcutting out parts for a garment of forty-two-inch bust measure, thenparts for forty-inch, then in succession thirty-eight, thirty-six,thirtyfour, and thirty-two inch. The patterns are so nested that whenany size is cut out all of the smaller sizes (if any) are left intact,since the lines of the several sizes do not intersect, the lines of eachsize being wholly between the'lines of the next larger size. I also contrive to design the nested patterns so that upon the'top and bottom ofeach nest the pattern-lines of the several sizes coincide, while theside linesof each pattern part are so separated from the side lines ofthe nextsized part that when any part is cut out the smaller parts areleft intact-as, for instance, in delineating an assortment of sizes ofpatterns for a dress-skirt I form a set of numerous gores for making upthe pattern of each size and like gores I nest together in such a mannerthat all the top lines (or waist-lines) coincide and all bottom linescoincide. I also divide the nest at a portion thereof between such topand bottom lines into sections, such sections being separate from eachother, and hence permitting relative adjustment for the purpose ofsecuring gores of the desired length.

In carrying outmy invention I print linear pattern-nests for each of theseveral parts of a dressgarment upon a set of rectangular sheets ofpaper corresponding usually to the sheets of a newspaper, the patternparts in each nest having the unsymmetrical outlines or contour of thecorresponding part of the dress-garment and differing from one anotherin size, the smaller nested within the larger, and all preferably gradedto correspond wit the standard sizes of bust measurements.

One of the advantages of the invention resides in the extreme cheapnessat which my improved dress-patterns can be-supplied to the public, sincethey may be printed in the same manner as an ordinary newspaper, and, infact, as part thereof, and at such little cost that they may befurnished as free supple-' I E, F, G, H, and I.

being divided, so that part thereof is printed upon one sheet and partupon the other. Upon the lower sheet are also printed two figures toshow back and front views of the style of dress for which said patternsare to be used. Fig. 2 shows two more unsevered sheets similar to thoseat Fig. l, but showing other gores of the same pattern, a scale alsobeing printed upon the upper sheet. Fig. 3 illustrates how the patternsmay be printed upon a full-width paper web. Fig. at is a diagram of thepattern-lines printed upon the other figures and illustrate differentcoloring of said lines and the matching-points shown at the otherfigures. Fig. 5 represents a nest of dressgoresthe back of a skirt, forexample-and showing the normal relation of the longitudinal sections ofthe gore. Fig. 6 shows the Fig. 5 parts joined to make asingle piecewith one section overlapping the other.

A at Fig. 3 designates part of a web-paper such as commonly employed inprinting newspapers; The lines y 3/ and w m show how the web may besevered into four similar rectangular sheets, (shown at Figs. 1 and 2,)each of a size commonly used for a double page of a newspaper. Uponthese sheets are printed dress-patterns according to my invention. Thedotted lines w w and z 2 at said Fig. 3 show the lines upon which thesheets are usually folded. The four rectangular sheets when severed andfolded may be regarded as comprising eight printed pages. The backs ofthe sheets may be unprinted. These pages are designated, respectively,as A, B, C, D,

Each of the six complete patterns shown is composed of separatedissimilar unsymmetrical body parts or gores, which are conformable toone another in making the garment. Said parts are of such suitable formsthat when fitted together they give the garment a shape for adornment ofthe wearer. To this end the parts of each pattern are numerous, as adress of the desired shape for adornment could not be produced by meansof only one or two pattern parts. Moreover, each of said parts is alsoso formed that it may be nested with similar parts of all the othersizesthat is, like parts of assorted or graduated sizes are nested sothat the several parts for each size of pattern may be cut out from theseveral nests. Each nest is printed separate from the other nests, andthe graduated parts in each nest are so delineated as to bedistinguishable one from another. Again, the separate parts are arrangedso as not only to give the desired ornamental shape to thedress-garment, but also so that when the different sizes of each partare nested the distinguishing-lines of each part extend along and whollybetween the corresponding lines of the next larger part, so that whenany part is cut out each smaller part remains intact. The distinguishinglines of each part, in other words, are placed between thedistinguishing-lines of the next larger part throughout each nest. Thusit will be seen that the lines of one part do not cross those of anotherpart in the nest, and hence without using even the least degree of skillall of the parts for any given size or pattern may be readily cut out byan inexperienced person without liability of error. A further advantageis gained by so forming and nesting the parts, since it results thatafter a large pattern-as, for instance, t2has been cut out and used formaking a dress garment any smaller size may still be cut out. Thecutting out of such large pattern leaves intact all the smaller parts inthe nest, so that after said large garment is finished any smaller sizepattern may be cut out for use in making a smaller dress-garment of thesame style, and this operation may be retained until as manydress-garments of that style are produced as there are sizes in thenestsay six sizes. Thus one set of patternsheets, obtained at no cost tothe user, may be made to serve for making dresses for several in asingle family. By the term nest I mean a series or set of gores (orparts) of diminishing sizes each fitting within the next in order. Inthis instance the principal feature of adornment secured by the use ofnumerous parts is the particular bell shape of the skirt, as is seen atT U, Fig. 3, or the sweep of the skirt. Since the lines do not cross,the operation of cutting out is vastly simplified, and liability ofmistakes is eliminated.

The gores are preferably so formed and placed in each nest that alltheir top lines coincide and all their bottom lines coincide, while theside lines of one gore are wholly between and separate from the sidelines of the next larger gore throughout the nest. The side lines of thegores are numbered, respectively, 42, 40, 38, 36, 34, and 32.representing the standard sizes of a dressskirt. It will be understoodthat in order to cut out any desired size it is only necessary to runthe scissors along the lines marked with the number which indicates thedesired size and also along the top and bottom lines of the gores, thusarriving at the exact shape of the gore on all sides. The lines in allnests are similarly followed in cutting out the numerous parts of anentire patternthat is, such lines as bear the same size-nnmbcr. As thesepatterns are full size, they are considerably too large to be printedupon a sheet, as BC, which corresponds in size to a double page of anordinary newspaper, which, as is well known, are universally printedfrom stereotype plates fitted around cylinders which rotate at a veryhigh speed, so great that the cost of printing each paper is verylittle. In order to print the full-size nest and still render itpracticable to print them upon the usual newspaper-presses or asportions of regularly-issued newspapers, I contrive to divide each nesttransversely into two longitudinal sections, each small enough to go ona slngle sheet. Thus if there are live gores or parts to the pattern Iprint them in ten sections, two or three of these sections being printedupon each double page or regusheets are assembled end to end thenest-sections match together, as will be understood by reference to Fig.2. The lower section of each nest is printed upon a different sheet,preferably from theupper section thereof, and the divisions of the nestsupon each sheet are parallel with and close to the same edge of thesheet and in alinementwith each other. It will be seen that the uppernest-sections are printed by the sides of the lower nestsection and ininverted relation thereto upon each of the set of four sheets.

The nest marked KL comprises gores of graduated sizes for the back ofthe skirt, K representing the lower section and L the upper section ofthe nest. M and N represent the upper and lower nest-sections for a backside gore. It will be seen that these two nests are printed in invertedrelation upon the pair of sheets, the section L being inverted by theside of N, and section M being inverted by the side of K.

O and P designate, respectively, upper and lower sections of a nest forthe skirt-front, Q and R for a plait, and S and T the lower and uppersections for the front side gore.

. For convenience in putting the sections together to form the numerouspattern parts, the, two sections of each nest may be designated byidentifying devices, in this case illustrated in the form of identicallettersas, for instance, the two sections of the nest KL may beindicated by the letters U U, the two sections of the nest MN by theletters VV, the sections of the nest OP by the letters W W, the sectionsof the nest QR by the letters X X, and the sections of the nest ST bythe letters YY. These corresponding letters may be printed upon or atthe dividinglines of the respective sections near the margins-of thesheets. Between the sections of each nest there is a space Z, throughthe middle of which runs the dotted line at 00. Margins a a are left atthe ends of the sheets. Before cutting out a part. the margin (0 may betrimmed off, and then the margin a upon the other section of the nest isplaced beneath or in any other suitable or convenient way.

I recommend that in case the ski-rt is too long the sections be stillmore overlapped, as at Fig. 6, so as to make the skirt the desiredlength, and in this case the superfluous paper upon the side ofthe'lowcr section maybe trimmed oif Without detracting from the use-vfulness of the patterns, as will readily be understood. In practice notvery great adjustment is required of thelength of the skirt, and in mostinstances the upper and lowersections of each skirt-gore, as at Fig. 5,may be relatively adjusted to the desired extent without causing onesection to encroach upon the other section. The width of the margins a aof the printed sheets is usually sufficient to permit all desiredadjustment of the length of the skirt; but in case an extraordinaryreduction. in the length is desired the sections -may be used in themanner seen at Fig. 6,

, may be continued by following down along the third from the outermostline of the lower section, thus trimming off the surplus edge materialof said lower section. As a further aid in cutting out the parts, theside lines thereof may be printed in colors, as indicated, for instance,at Fig. 4, which represents alternatelyred and blue colors, 32 36 40being red and 34 38 12 being blue. Preferably each size of pattern is ofa different color from all of the other .sizesas', for instance, red maybe used for size 32, and the larger sizes may be colored, respectively,blue, black, green, purple, and brown. These colors are particularlysuit able, because green, purple, and brown can be made by combining twoof the other colors in a way that is familiar to the skilled printer.The color line for each size is the same in all of the nests, and it ismy intention in successive publications of the same periodical to usealways the same color for the same size of pattern throughout, so thatthe user will soon become accustomed to cut out only the particularcolor which corresponds to her own piece becomes useless'owing to amistake in cutting out only one part of a pattern therefrom. It will beseen that all this waste of goods and consequent delay and expense is.avoided by the use of my invention.

Since the gores or parts of the dress-skirt iare dissimilar andnumerous, and it is hence impracticable for the unskilled user toasserri ble them without assistance, I provide matching-points 6 uponeach part, which will indi cate how the several parts are to beassembled. These points are printed upon each part of each size, andpreferably upon each side of each nest-section, as shown. They areprinted in colors, the color of each part being the same as that of thedistinguishing-line of its own pattern part. It is immaterial what styleof points are used.

When cutting out the fabric by the use of the patterns, notches may becut in the edges of the fabric by simply cutting out thesematching-points wherever they appear upon the pattern. Then inassembling the fabric parts to complete the dress it is only necessaryto sew together the edges having similar matching-points.

It will be understood that while in the particular patterns referred tothe different sizes are indicated by side lines that are parallel, stillin other patterns it is not necessary in all cases for the lines to beparallel.

While I have shown a set of two long sheets, it will be understood thatthe invention is not limited to this precise number of sheets nor is itlimited to a pattern of four gores.

A scale is printed upon the page F, as shown at d, for convenience forthose using the patterns.

Upon the page E, Fig. 1, is represented a figure T, attired in a skirtof the kind to be made by means of the patterns illustrated, and alsopreferably a figure U, showing the different views of the garment. Thesefigures are printed in colors at the same time with the patterns, sothat not only the shape and style are illustrated for the user, but alsothe colorings of the different parts of an entire suiting, so that theentire effect of the suit may be disclosed. Each figure shows a fullsuit, of which the described skirt is a part.

Although I have shown different-sized patterns for dress-skirts, it willbe understood that the invention is applicable in many particulars toother dress-garments. Portions of my improvements may be used withoutothers, and variations may be resorted to within the scope of myinvention.

Having thus described my invention, I claim 1. A pattern comprising abase and demarking-outlines thereon, said outlinesbeing broken andspaced to form sections of a complete pattern-outline, whereby said basemay be folded or cut in said space between the broken lines, and saidoutlines joined to make a complete pattern-outline.

2. As a new article of manufacture, a set of patterns of graduated sizesfor a dress-garment, comprising a base, and demarking-outlines thereon;each pattern comprising numerous unsymmetrical body parts conformable toone another; like body parts of graduated sizes being nested; each ofsaid nests being broken and spaced to form sections, whereby said basemay be folded or cut in said space between the broken sections, and saidsections may be joined to make a complete nest.

3. As a new article of manufacture, a setof patterns of graduated sizesfor a dress-garment, comprising a paper base, and demarking patternoutlines thereon; each pattern comprising numerous unsymmetrical bodyparts conformable to one another; like body parts of graduated sizesbeing nested; each nest having a single top line and a single bottomline and numerous side lines; each of said nests broken across said sidelines and spaced to form sections, whereby said base may be folded orcut in said space between the sections, and said sections may be joinedto make a complete nest.

4. As a new article of manufacture, a set of similar rectangular sheetsof paper having printed thereon demarking-outlincs for a set of patternsof graduated sizes for a dress-garment, each pattern comprising numerousnnsymmetrical body parts conformable to one another; like body parts ofgraduated sizes being nested; each nest having numerous side lines, andbeing broken across said side lines and spaced to form sections; eachsheet having thereon a plurality of such sections side by side, in suchrelation that a single cut may be made across the sheet between thebreaks of the several nests, whereby the sections may be joined to makecomplete nests.

5. As a new article of manufacture, a set of similar rectangular sheetsof paper having printed thereon demarking-outlines for a set of patternsof graduated sizes for a dress-garment; each pattern comprising numerousunsymmetrical body parts conformable to one another; like body parts ofgraduated sizes being nested; each nest having numerous side lines; theparts in the nests so formed and placed that the lines of the partscoincidealong one of the top and bottom edges of each nest; thedistinguishing lines of the parts in each nest printed in contrastingcolors; the coloring of the parts for each size of pattern corresponding in all the nests; each of the parts in each nest designatedby an individual size number; parts of corresponding sizes throughoutthe several nests designated by identical size numbers; the conformableedges of the parts provided with a variety of printed matching-points;each nest broken across said side lines and spaced to form sections;each sheet having thereon a plurality of such sections side by side, insuch relation that a single cut may be made across the sheet between thebreaks of the several nests, whereby the sections may be joined to makecomplete nests; and the sections of each nest having suitableidentifying-marks.

(5. As a new article of manufacture, a set of similar rectangular sheetsof paper having printed thereon demarking-outlines for adressskirtpattern comprising numerous separate unsymmetrical dissimilar goresconformable to one another along'their side edges; the gores printedside by side in inverted relation; each gore broken across its sidelines and spaced to form sections, whereby the sheets may be folded orcut in the spaces between the broken lines, and said outlines joined tomake complete gores. v I

7. As a new article of manufacture, a set of similar rectangular sheetsof paper having printed thereon demarking-outlines for a set ofpatternsof graduated sizes for a dress-skirt; each pattern comprisingnumerous unsymmetrical dissimilar gore's conformable to one anotheralong their side edges; like gores of graduated sizes being nested; eachnest having numerous side lines, and being broken WILLIAM FREEMAN.

Witnesses:

JOSEPH J. JAcoBs, WILTON C. D NN.

